Archaeologists in the high Castle – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

We stood in the ruined fort looking down at the sea. Each one of us was exhausted from months of excavation, but feeling rejuvenated by our climb to the top of Castle Island.

From our vantage point we could watch the ocean churn amongst the reefs lying out beyond the small barrier islands. Far beneath us the water surged amongst jagged rocks, swirling into dark eddies and casting foam high into the air. It was tempting to lean out as far as you could, but the limestone cliffs were weak and crumbling where we stood beside the four-hundred year old walls.

Doug looks over the edge of the Sea Battery. The cliffs were crumbling, and he felt most comfortable standing back a ways. – Photo by Veronica Morriss © 2012 the Warwick Project

The water surged amongst jagged rocks, swirling into dark eddies and casting foam high into the air. – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

Castle Island defended the early colony of Bermuda. A natural battlement, it guarded Castle Roads, the only navigable channel between the reefs and rocky outcrops that surrounded Bermuda’s primary harbour and the King’s Anchorage. The island is home to three small forts. It was one-half of a sea gate – the other half was Fort Southampton on a small island one thousand feet to the east. If Castle Harbour was ever threatened by sea, the two forts could raise a chain between them, blocking the channel – a crude portcullis of sorts.

Director Piotr Bojakowski points to Fort South Hampton, across Castle Roads. If Castle Harbour was ever threatened by sea, the two forts could raise a chain between the islands.

An overview of the Kings Castle and the sea battery. Veronica exploring. – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

The Kings Castle stands at the eastern apex of Castle Island. Started in 1612, it is the oldest standing English fortification in the new world and Bermuda’s oldest extant stone structure. It was improved in the 1620s by Governor Nathaniel Butler as part of his great building campaign, and it is now part of a UNESCO world heritage site.

A good place to anchor in front of Charles Island. – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

Veronica looking at sea glass – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

It is easy to reach the fort by boat. Many day cruisers come and anchor between the network of tiny islands, as we did. We just leapt over the side of the boat and swam into a small sandy cove which had collected a fair amount of seaglass. Once you climb onto the rocks you can follow a rudimentary path up the hillside. Overgrown with leaves and cactus, it leads you past degraded outbuildings to the top of the cliff, where you have an extraordinary view the ocean and roofless “Captains House”. Erected by Butler in 1621, it is now the oldest standing English house in the New World.

The thorny trail in front of the ruined outbuildings. – Photo by Veronica Morriss © 2012 the Warwick Project

The ruins of Kings Castle fortress – Photo by Veronica Morriss © 2012 the Warwick Project

The crumbling walls of the Captains House. Erected by Butler in 1621, it is now the oldest standing English house in the New World. – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

Standing there, it was hard to imagine how isolating this place would have been for the soldiers and conscripts belonging to the small Bermudian garrison. It is easy for day travelers like us to come and go with the weather. Four hundred years ago, however, this far-flung outpost would have had little contact from St. Georges, and no relief from the tempestuous island storms. It would have been a cold and miserable assignment much of the winter.

Assistant Director Doug Inglis and Project Director Piotr Bojakowski discussing the Kings Castle defenses – Photo by Veronica Morriss © 2012 the Warwick Project

Josh and Maureen look over the edge of Castle Island – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

The only serious action the Kings Castle witnessed was just after its inception. Although the Spanish had know of Bermuda for some time (its was named after famed navigator Juan de Bermúdez), their fleets largely avoided the “Isle of Devils”. They took notice however when English entrepreneurs decided to form a colony on the small mid-Atlantic steppingstone. The Spanish sent a reconnaissance mission in 1614. It was repulsed by two rounds of cannon fire from the Kings Castle. The Spanish fell back, not knowing that the under-armed battery only had one shot left! Desperately short of ordnance, the island was defended by a cannon that had been salvaged from the 1609 wreck of Sea Venture.

Limestone walls of the sea battery – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

The island defenses would remain precariously thin until the arrival of  Governor Nathaniel Butler and the unexpected demise of Warwick, the ship that brought him to Bermuda. (To learn more about the shipwreck and 2012 excavation, click here.) Salvers were able to raise eight cannons which were used to bolster the island’s defenses.

The cliffs and the lonely castle – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

If you want to learn more about Bermuda’s Historic Forts, check out a copy of “Bermuda Forts, 1612 – 1957″ by Dr. Edward C. Harris. It is an incredible book, and a great guide to the Island!

And if you are still interested, there are two more forts on this island which I will write about soon. Until then, thanks for reading!

-Douglas Inglis

Jeff Delsescaux photographs a ship passing in front of old Fort Southampton. – Photo by Douglas Inglis © 2012 the Warwick Project

Reblogged from Warwick, 1619: Shipwreck Excavation:

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By Guest Blogger: Jeff Delsescaux

When not being delayed by weather, the crew of the Warwick Project is recording the shipwreck in minute detail.  To make sure we make an accurate map of the ship, we use multiple methods including mapping by feature, profiles (cross sectional diagrams), photomosaics, trilateration and direct 1:1 recording.

Mapping by feature is a time consuming recording process that allows for detailed documentation of the layout of the shipwreck's timbers. 

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Reblogged from Warwick, 1619: Shipwreck Excavation:

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A tropical storm swept across Bermuda last week, decimating our diving operation. We are finally back on track, and are working double shifts to make up lost time.

We had severe gusts for days, the worst of which reached 67 knots in Castle Harbor. A number of local boats wrecked, and we have a much better idea of how Warwick met her end.

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Reblogged from Warwick, 1619: Shipwreck Excavation:

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One of the most important, dirty and labor intensive aspects of terrestrial archaeology is screening excavated sediments: as above, so below. Well, sort of. Working underwater makes everything more complicated.

Although archaeologists dig very carefully, they often screen excavated material to make sure no important clues are missed. On land, this is most often accomplished by filling buckets with back dirt and dumping them through a 1/4" or 1/8" screen.

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Reblogged from Warwick, 1619: Shipwreck Excavation:

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The previous week had been grey and miserable. The wind kept shifting and made rounding Castle Roads a choppy passage. For the most part, we were constantly working with the latent threat of a storm.

On the morning of the 28th, however, the sun was brilliant, the sky cloudless, and the water in Castle Harbour clearer than I had ever seen it.

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Reblogged from Warwick, 1619: Shipwreck Excavation:

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Warwick lies, torn asunder, on the floor of Castle Harbour. As we slowly uncover the ship's buried skeleton, we are continuously astounded by the quality of her construction. She was built from densely packed, massive oak timbers. Between three layers of outer planking, frames, and inner planking (confusingly referred to as ceiling), Warwick's hull would have been solid wood, two feet thick in places.

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A panorama view of Castle Harbour from our dive barge – © 2012, Warwick Project

Warwick sank in Castle Harbour, Bermuda almost 400 years ago. The galleon collided with the reefs during a fierce hurricane in 1916.  We have joined a team of archaeologists from around the world to investigate this incredible site. Veronica and I will post daily updates about the excavation, the island and the artifacts uncovered by the team. We want to you to be a part of the Warwick project, and will answer as many questions as we can from the field.

Archaeologists excavate and map the hull remains of Warwick in 2011 – © 2011 Jon Adams, Warwick Project

The first two weeks have blown by. As assistant director, I flew in early, along with DSO Mike Gilbart, Conservator Maureen Merrigan and Marine Engineer James Davidson. We had to get the entire project up and running before the rest of the team arrived.

Everything had to come out of storage – pumps, screens, line, anchors, weights, buoys, bumpers, rebar, etc. etc. etc.

Mike, Maureen, James and Piotr load the boat at Tuckers Point Scuba and Watersports Center

Everything turned out to be broken. Actually, that is a lie. Only the pumps were broken – but we are so completely dependent on them they pretty much constitute “everything”. When they don’t work, we don’t work. There was moderate a burst of panic as we tried to determine what was wrong, and how to beg/barrow/steal new pumps if the old ones had truly given up the ghost.

Our Honda pumps, up and running once again after Marine Engineer James Davidson gave them a total overhaul – © 2012, Warwick Project

Apparently all they needed was a little love and attention. As reliable as always, James sorted them out. Bermuda is tough on equipment, and the salt air gives equipment a short half life. We stripped them, ground off the rust, greased everything, popped in new filters and spark plugs, and slapped them back together. The full overhaul did the trick, and both pumps roared back to life.

In addition to getting the equipment sorted out, we had to prep a mobile office and lab. We will be stationed on the east side of the island for the next two months, with minimal opportunities to commute back to the Bermuda Maritime Museum.

Iron Mike, at the helm. – © 2012, Warwick Project

Our first week was a race against the clock. A foul weather system planted itself offshore and refused to leave. Erratic winds and a heavy chop prevented us from meeting and anchoring the dive barge early in the week. Timing was critical, as Bermuda Day was fast approaching. The annual event shuts the whole island down for a four day weekend. If we didn’t get the barge by Wednesday, excavation would be delayed until Monday, putting us half a week behind schedule.

On Wednesday morning, we rolled out of bed just as daylight was creeping over the horizon, grabbed breakfast to go and ran down to the boat. We were racing the tide. Long Bird Causeway separates Castle Harbour from the north shore of the island. The Museum’s Parker boat can only make it under the bridge at half tide, or lower. Our window of opportunity came very early in the morning. We made it beneath the bridge with only 6 inches to spare, and had to walk the boat along by pushing off the iron girders above our head.

Geoffrey Redmond’s dive barge, anchored over the site. – © 2012, Warwick Project

Setting the barge took the whole morning. We had to position her over the site, put out 4 anchors, erect the canopies, set up the pumps and unpack, organize and stow our gear. At last, we are ready to excavate!

More about that soon enough,

Doug

Early morning view from our room © 2011 Doug Inglis

It was darker than normal this morning.  The sky was overcast and the air was heavy; rain was on the horizon.  Breakfast, as per usual, was some form of rice. Today the kitchen served the mushroom rice balls that Doug has become so fond of.

Rice Balls with Cloud Ear Mushrooms © 2011 Randall Sasaki

I myself prefer beef pho or the occasional bread and butter if we are lucky.  The food here is not terrible, but frequently unusual.  The meat is questionable and not to my liking.  For instance, the processed pork product that has become a staple of our lunch routine is so pungent it makes me gag.  Entire chickens are boiled and then hacked into chunks and served bones and all.  Needless to say, I don’t eat much meat here.

Velvet Pork © 2011 Doug Inglis

Beer, on the other hand, is remarkably cheap and can be found nearly everywhere.  The little café where we have our lunch serves two types of local beer, and even has beer on tap for 75 cents a pint.  Refrigerator space is limited so ice is a necessity.  On good days we spoil ourselves with green bean popsicles.  I must admit though, I am not too keen on either the beans or the ice cream.

Refreshments at the nearby cafe © 2011 Randall Sasaki

Soybean Ice Cream © 2011 Randall Sasaki

I slipped on a pair of green rubber boots that I bought in Hanoi.  Yesterday, my legs were blackened from the dust that had blown up my pant legs.  Today I’d try the boots.  Doug and I geared up for the magnetometer survey.  Earlier, at breakfast, we unfortunately learned that the data we collected yesterday was useless.  We had to re-survey a plot of farmland that had taken us seven hours to complete.  Add a 50-pound metal-framed backpack to the equation and the task becomes markedly unpleasant.  Each transect we walk is spaced four meters and extends approximately 300 meters across rough terrain.  Among the obstacles are two-foot tall rice stalks, heaps of plowed clay, burial mounds, dykes, and canals that I am certain are teeming with schistosomiasis and other dubious creatures.  Generally, after walking about four transects the muscles in your right shoulder are on fire from the unevenly balanced pole that suspends the two mag sensors.  Following the eighth or ninth transect I get cranky.

Burning the Fields © 2011 Randall Sasaki

Fields on Fire © 2011 Doug Inglis

The cool weather was a pleasant relief.  Several of the fields we surveyed yesterday were set ablaze by the local farmers; smoke billowed into the sky.  A slight breeze began to blow from the west.  Surely enough, the moment we had geared up, the first drop of rain was felt.  Considering Doug was carting equipment with a hefty price-tag, we couldn’t take any chances. As the rain pelted down from the hazy heavens, we had only one option for shelter.  I threw our rain jackets over the equipment on Doug’s back and we awkwardly sprinted to the nearest house which was about 400 meters away.  Apparently, we were not the only ones who ran to that house for shelter. Mr. Lam, the project’s cultural liaison, was there, as were several of the local children whom I had met in the fields the other day.  Children here are looked after by everyone.  The family who lived there generously made space for our equipment on their porch and offered us a couple of plastic chairs to sit on.  We had no means of contacting our fearless leaders, but we knew they would find us soon.  We were expendable but our gear was not.

Doug's Tutorial © 2011 Veronica Morriss

As the rain pelted down on the tin roof overhead, we shared a few laughs with the family as we tried to communicate with Dr. Lam and the kids.  Doug cradled the magnetometer console and attempted to explain what the strange-looking device did.  It turned into a bad game of charades with Doug finally resorting to drawing pictures on a rain-soaked sheet of paper.  Everyone was amused.

Vietnamese Charades © 2011 Veronica Morriss

The family owned a significantly large fish pond, compared to some of the others we had seen.  The banks were lined with banana trees, mango trees, and eucalyptus, though not the variety that koala’s like to eat.  The rain transformed the surface of the lake into a flurry of concentric ripples.  Several bamboo fish traps were stacked under the porch.  The villagers weave thin strips of bamboo into ornate traps, some so small it is hard to imagine they catch anything worth eating.  However, in Vietnam the people eat everything.

The Fish Pond © 2011 Veronica Morriss

Bamboo for Fish Traps © 2011 Veronica Morriss

It took about 20 minutes for Randy and J.B. to show up. The rain had let up a bit but it was still drizzling.  The car pulled up beside the house and we ran the gear to the trunk. Our boots threatened to pull off in the wet mud underfoot.  Feeling wet and sticky from the humidity, we waved our goodbyes to our new friends and headed back to the hotel for a warm shower and hot meal.

So here’s what’s next: We hope that you will follow us to Bermuda this summer. At the end of May, Veronica and I will join a team of archaeologists from the island and around the world for the third and final season of the Warwick excavation. We will be diving on a 17th century shipwreck, dredging away sands that have covered her for nearly 400 years.

Coral Reef © 2011 Douglas Inglis

Dr. Piotr Bojakowski recording Warwicks hull - © 2011 Jon Adams, edited by Douglas Inglis

Warwick was an English galleon that  sank upon Bermuda’s reefs in 1619. Her remains lie in shallow water just inside of Castle Harbor. (Click here to read more about the ship and the hurricane that wrecked her).

During June and July, we will blog live from the project, posting daily updates on the underwater excavation, crew and artifacts uncovered by the team. We want to make you a part of the Warwick project, and are excited to have you on board with us! We will answer as many questions as we can from the field.

Cote Zegers holds a wooden jar stopper © 2011 Douglas Inglis

Here is how the plan for 2012 is shaping up:

At the start of 2010, we had no idea how much of Warwick remained. We began by excavating the galleon’s stern – previously uncovered by famous Bermudian diver Teddy Tucker. In 2011 we removed a massive pile of ballast from the hull, revealing timbers that had not been seen for some 400 years.

Top timbers and encrusted spiked shot - © 2011 Warwick Project, Douglas Inglis

This year, we intend to uncover the rest of the wreck, scan the area for Warwick’s lost cannons and determine if any portions of the ship’s missing keel or starboard side remain. We still do not know how much of the hull is buried beneath the sand and silt. The ship is lying at an angle; the further we move towards her bow, the deeper the sediment gets, and the longer it takes us to uncover her.

Screening the overburden for artifacts - © 2011 Warwick Project, Douglas Inglis

James Davidson, Douglas Inglis and Dr. Piotr Bojakowski discuss the next move at the swim step. © 2011 Warwick Project, Douglas Inglis

Although we have two months – our longest season yet – we will be racing against time because 2012 is the last year of excavation. We have been trained by the last two seasons, and know what to expect from the ship, the site, and the equipment. At this point, Warwick is an old friend, though she holds many mysteries still.

Thanks for following!

-Doug and Veronica

Fish swim above the ballast pile - © 2011 Warwick Project, Douglas Inglis

As a scholar of Dutch shipbuilding, his post provides a unique view of what it is like to come face to face with the ships that you study. He argues that while replicas “may differ in some ways from their historical predecessors, they are still magnificent structures that evoke a visceral response in their viewers and visitors.” If you have never seen the replica of Batavia, you must read this post.

Reblogged from: Nautical Archaeology in the 21st Century

The Power of Replicas, Part 1

Seeing Batavia was a pilgrimage of sorts.  In my first semester at Texas A&M, I was assigned to give a seminar presentation on the (original) ship, where I learned the story of the wrecking, the excavation, and became enthralled by the history of the VOC (Dutch East India Company).  Not long after, I fell under the spell of Dutch shipbuilding and have focused my studies on the subject ever since.    While doing research for my seminar presentation, I learned about the replica and saw some truly stunning images…

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Batavia Replica - © 2012 Kelby Rose, from the Nautical Archaeology in the 21st Century blog