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Archaeologists in the Kings Castle

We stood in the ruined fort looking down at the sea. Each one of us was exhausted from months of excavation, but feeling rejuvenated by our climb to the top of Castle Island. From our vantage point we could watch the ocean churn amongst the reefs lying out beyond the small barrier islands. Far beneath […]

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Shipwreck Excavation – We’re Live!

At last – the Warwick Excavation blog is up and running! Veronica and I are in beautiful Bermuda helping to uncover and document the sunken English galleon Warwick. For the next two months we will be blogging live from the project at http://warwick1619.wordpress.com/ Warwick sank in Castle Harbour, Bermuda almost 400 years ago. The galleon […]

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When The Rain Comes

It was darker than normal this morning.  The sky was overcast and the air was heavy; rain was on the horizon.  Breakfast, as per usual, was some form of rice. Today the kitchen served the mushroom rice balls that Doug has become so fond of. I myself prefer beef pho or the occasional bread and […]

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This One Walking Beside Me Whom I Do Not See

Some of the angels I encountered in the Greek cemetery, described in Angels over Alexandria.  The poems are from our favorite poets, Constantine Cavafy and Juan Ramón Jiménez. “I am not I. I am this one walking beside me whom I do not see, whom at times I manage to visit, and whom at other times […]

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Angels Over Alexandria

It was a blustery day in Alexandria (El Eskanderia) and the sea was full of chop. The northerly, known by the ancients as the Etesian wind, was blowing strong.  During the summer months this wind would pick up strength and provide favorable conditions for ancient mariners sailing to Egypt from Greece and the Aegean.  Just […]

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Sinking in the earth’s (muddy) magnetic field…

I am wearing $28,000 of sensitive electrical equipment and sinking deeper into the rice paddy with every step. By this point, its pretty apparent that I am going to need some help. I am carrying a device called a gradiometer. It measures anomalies in the earths magnetic field. Our team is using it to look […]

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Where Djinn are Watching

The Polish magnetometer team arrived at the dig house just short of 9am.  Their leader, Tomasz Herbich, who is fiercely Polish with a grey mane and arching eyebrows, was accompanied by two younger fellows who were going to do the brunt work.  Rafaat, my second-hand man, was available to chauffeur us around the site.  He’s […]

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There are no sidewalks where the sidewalks are

Quảng Yên, Việt Nam There are no sidewalks where the sidewalks are. We cannot walk ten meters without having to weave into the road. Like urban breakers, the streets of Quảng Yên crash into an endless line of little store fonts. The space between curb and building is just another parking spot for trucks, bikes […]

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Souq el-Goma’a: Venturing to Cairo’s Underground Market

May 14th 2010- It was just after 9am and the streets of Zamalek were relatively quiet.  The mosque on Marashly Street was jam-packed with men attending Friday morning prayer.  Lime green mats were strewn across the street to accommodate the masses.  Birds fluttered overhead in the trees, the air was warm but not sweltering yet.  […]

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